Bullfights

Unlike larger, fatter beef cattle, virtually all of which are slaughtered for meat, the fighting bull has an (admittedly small) chance for survival.  If the matador is impressed with the ferocity and beauty of the animal, he may ask the President of the Ring to grant an "indulto".  If this request is granted, the bull will be led out of the ring, allowed to recover and put to stud.  This is how the breed of fast, lean, wiry little fighting bulls is continually improved.

Bullfights begin at 5:30pm on Sunday afternoons in the months of January, February and March.  The bullring, Plaza Caletilla, is located behind the old jai alai frontón at the end of every "Caleta" bus line.  A one-way street circles the frontón and the ring.  Moving with the traffic to the right of the frontón brings you to the more expensive 'shady side' ticket office and entrance.  Going to the left of the frontón, against the traffic flow, takes you to the less expensive 'sunny side' ticket office and entrance.   As a general rule, each of four young men will kill one bull.

Tickets can be bought at the ring from noon on the day of the fight, and cost from 300 to 400 pesos for the first rows.  Virtually the entire ring is in the shade by 5:30pm and the sunny side may be less crowded with tourists.   General admission is significantly less expensive than the reserved seats, and has usually cost about 50 pesos for the past several years.  (Tickets bought at your hotel will probably cost whatever the traffic will bear.) 

Note on words:  all the men in the ring are 'toreros."   "Toreador" is a word from a French opera and inappropriate.  The star of the show, whose suit is usually decorated with gold, is the "matador" ("killer").     In reference to the bulls, "bravo" means "fierce," not   "brave."   It is always hoped that every bull will "fierce" or "mean" ( 'bravo") and that every man who faces the bull will be "valiente" -- meaning "brave."